Same amount of work, less $$. I’m redoing a ton of stuff in my house, trying to increase the value so I can refinance. Subscribing is one of the best ways to get updates, snag DIY tips, and see progress! So it’s best to encapsulate an old-school popcorn ceiling like this instead of tearing it out and re-doing the drywall. It sucks up the dust so well that I don’t feel like I’m putting myself in harm’s way when I can’t find my dust mask (PSA: you should probably always wear them. It’s a tough job to say the least! I’m a chatty person by nature, and blogging just seems to fit, so I’ll throw in some crazy shit that has nothing to do with DIY every now and then too. While it may not seem like it’s loose, you may find out differently once you slap your first layer of joint compound on the wall. I took down my wallpaper and am having a painter coming to spray texture for me. Protect furniture and entryways from dust and splatter. This is because walls which have paint that is no longer in good condition will either need repairs or a professional may need to strip the paint first. ), Of course, now I won’t have an excuse for why my kitchen/dining area still isn’t painted…, Sure you will. The main floor is finished, but I have an entire second floor with cathedral ceilings left to do…someday. The water in latex paint does the same thing, but on a “micro” basis. Skim coat it! Thanks for the post! It refers to spreading a layer of joint compound over the walls to fill in the bumps and valleys in the texture, effectively creating a smooth surface. If you still see indentations or imperfections after the second coat dries, trowel on a third coat. JavaScript is disabled. I use only setting type joint compound. If you’re a beginner and aren’t confident about your technique, you can sand in between coats if you want. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a single tutorial that had all of my answers. I’ve been searching for help with wallpaper removal (now done — is it OK that I’m more proud and relieved by that than following childbirth?! I’ve also seen the tip to use an oil-based primer, but I can’t stand the smell. Really great post. Latex. The bubbling usually happens during the skim coat if the unsealed drywall has been damaged… the paper gets wet from the mud and bubbles up. Lightweight compound goes on smoother for me if I thin it out, and that’s what was recommended to me when I first did it several years ago. There is an “easy-sand” joint compound product that also dries in 45 minutes. When you skim coat a wall, you apply a thin layer of drywall joint compound to the entire wall in order to create a smooth, even surface. I appreciate your hard work on your walls and the time you took to write your helpful hints. I used it for outside trim on my shed and it went on like wallpaper glue (obviously I have a glue problem.). Sand the primer coat lightly with very fine sandpaper and add a second coat if skimmed areas show through or the painted surface is not solid. What I desperately want to know is…..How did you put up that wainscot in the after picture? (How’s that for a run on sentence?). I also though that the harder surface was more appealing. I am soooooo not looking forward to this process but at least I feel a little better about starting it. Thanks for sharing your experience! Thank you for this post, especially the RX-35 tip. Thanks in advance. I think the primers you mentioned would have prevented this. (I also tend to forget masks/respirators in the process of getting stuff done. The Gardz helped my issue a great deal. After 15 minutes the 20-minute compound starts to get “sluggish.” So If I have a quick small repair I use 20. I don't think that it's my technique, and I don't think that the compound has been over-mixed. Trying to get my ducks in a row for the next step, even though it might be a year in the future ? My new house is my “grown up house”, so I’m planning on doing things the “right” way!! I don’t see why I wouldn’t use this technique for a piece of drywall that has some paper damage here and there, though. so i dont want to mud it that much, i primed it today and ran a coat. Using a paddle mixer can be extremely helpful if you’re doing a lot of application in a single day. Regarding the RX-35… Do you just use that on sections of drywall that appear torn, or the entire room? I’ve dealt with a few more puzzling obstacles with each subsequent room, and despite the frustration, I’m probably better for it (at least for the next house, whenever that may be). Actually, level 4 includes all steps taking of coating and coating again with the joint compound over the joints and angles to create an even level. As someone who reads via email, can I ask your opinion on them, specifically? Happy to have you following along and relating to the DIY life! You can also get a small paintbrush to help you paint any hard to reach spots, such as the corners or above the baseboards. You should be proud!!! So all of that to say: I needed an answer, I looked it up, collected any helpful info there was on the subject into a workable tutorial for myself, and kept going. I don’t have any wallpaper to fight or any need for glass-smooth walls here in the southwestern land of forgiving, texture spattered walls, but I appreciate the blood, sweat, and tears it must have cost you to gain this knowledge. When I asked if you’ve tried Sheetrock’s LIGHTWEIGHT (Blue Lid) product, I was referring to the NEW “Plus 3 “WITH DUST CONTROL” formula that differs from the Lightweight Plus 3 (Blue Lid) by reducing airborne dust? It feels dry. I like tearing my house apart and putting it back together again. I wanted to look at it this morning but he got there pretty early and had already put on the 2nd coat. Can u use any kind of primer to seal if to keep it from pitting? Sorry you didn’t catch it beforehand, but glad you have it now for the next project! Haha, I’m glad to hear my lessons are helpful so you can avoid the same mistakes! (You’d still want to finish your final coats with the lightweight stuff.). Want even more info? I didn’t really find either of the types I’ve used all of that difficult to sand, but I did notice a difference between mixing and not mixing when it comes to sanding down the wall (on one or two occasions, I’ve been too lazy to mix up a new batch and have slathered the stuff on to fix a tiny mark in the wall, only to see it do this weird ridge-like lump after sanding). In fact, some pros who commented were very insistent on this after they discovered my first tutorial. Question..in lieu of Glidden Gripper, can I use RX-35 or Gardz after the final coat of joint compound has been applied? No results online about it sticking to a sheen surface, so I called the company directly, and was told it will adhere just fine to the eggshell, but not to skim coat over the RX-35 because the joint compound won’t adhere to it properly. The RX-35 is a sealer/primer, so this has worked well for me. I’m in the same boat doing the single DIY and learning by mistakes everyday but on the other side of the planet with a shed full of power tools a house full of sanding dust and now a big smile. Will it EVER end?!!! Wish I could have read this seven years ago. Glad I could help! Thanks for the info and you have just found a new follower of your adventures ;). If I have an entire wall to skim coat I use 90. Do you have any thoughts on this? Since most of the surface is painted, I looked to see if RX-35 would adhere well to the finish as well as the drywall paper, or if I should just paint it onto the areas that I plan to float/fill with joint compound (I’m not floating the whole wall). In today's skim coating tutorial. Where was this post three months is ago? Yes, prior to skim coating, I began by sealing off the old paper. My opinion differs from yours in the choice of primer. So good luck with your next project, and I hope these tips helped! In a similar way, they suggest you to not use paints with textures such as eggshell or knockdown, as that kind of defeats the whole purpose of the flatness of a skim coat. You rock. Totally new to all this… :-/ Thanks! I use a brush to cut-in, but I only do that for a few feet before I follow over the brush marks with a roller. If we had, had your tutorials before hand I’m sure things would have come out more smoothly (pun intended), but hey you don’t know what you don’t know I guess right? I love opening my email and finding you have a new post. I also did a follow up one about tips on getting around pesky things like windows and outlets, so you can find that here. Can surfaces be too heavily textured to skim coat? You will find the combination to be thick and stiff when you first mix it. I occasionally talk about other things, like life and food and travel, but it's mostly my obsession with DIY and power tools that you'll find here! I really hate skim coating but with an 85-year-old duplex covered in layers of wallpaper I don’t have much choice. He ran into EVERY problem you talk about here, especially the bubbling! Normally, when dealing with fresh drywall, you still want to prime separately, as it not only primes, but seals the joint compound (I’ve tried using some formulas in the past that scared me off for a while… fresh paint coming off the wall & back onto your roller is gross). Cover the floor with a canvas or plastic drop cloth. If you’re not adverse to the greater cost and heavier labor associated with demo’ing and hanging new drywall, I tend to think that’s the better way to go–especially for larger areas of damage. Now, I see so many dings, lines, scratches in the ceiling that need to be gone!!! It’s entirely defeating to see it happen, because it means a new problem to fix. It prevents cracks and other issues when the base layer isn’t fully dry. The process of smoothing textured walls with skim coating is fairly common. Skim Coating to get rid of ugly texture . Add more water slowly until the mixture has a slightly thicker consistency than paint. Red dot all purpose has glue or adhesive mixed in and works well over painted walls. Thank you for that feedback! Of course, that also means you learn more new tricks and tips as you do the same projects over and over. Thanks for your words of “wisdom”, clever with & refreshing potty mouth!! 1. Hi! but wondered if you’ve tried the new DUST CONTROL formula. I was able to purchase a quart of Gardz today and plan to put that on before I prime over that spot. The skim coating process involves applying a thin coat of joint compound to a divot in a wall to fill and cover the imperfection. Ugly Duckling House is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. (@*^ wallpaper down, that is. The walls that were “pocked” I ended up just using orange peel texture. I had never even HEARD the term “skim coat” before a few weeks ago, when a coworker was describing the process to me. Thanks for sharing. I hope your walls turn out great. In the first tutorial, I shared some info on what kind of joint compound (aka “mud”) to look for and where to find it. Googling some version of “skim coat after wallpaper” led me to your original post, and here I am! What I’ve found is that the minutes only refers to the time available to use it, NOT the time it takes to cure for a subsequent coat and/or sanding. I vacuum the walls. Thank you for the tips on skim coating the wall damage, and in particular the pole sander shop-vac attachment. And plus any damages you did. P.S. Skim coating as a process repairs the wall by filling up dented regions and uneven surfaces by applying an appropriate compound. I was pretty disappointed, since it seemed like such a sure thing. Most paint products (especially paint/primer combos) are formulated to work on walls that have already been painted. Skim coating is the level five drywall finishing step that professional installers perform to achieve perfect wall texture. Got a DIY question? However, if the surface has been damaged, exposed to water or if you have a very shiny paint to cover, some preparation will be necessary to ensure no bubbling develops in the finish when you're done. Thanks for your feedback! This how to skim coat trick is a great way for anyone from DIYers to contractors to apply a skim coat to drywall and plaster walls or ceilings. The back-and-forth motion of the brush leaves a pattern in the mud at the top of the wall that is called a hatband. Unlike most primers you would be used to in the paint world, this goes on more like glue (it looks like skim milk in the can, actually). Tag me on Instagram @uglyducklingDIY or use the hashtag #uglyducklinghouse to show off your projects! I’m really glad that you mentioned that the joint compound you use should be mixed thoroughly because it can make a difference when sanding a wall. Sure! Joy, a 73-yo grannie about to begin my project post-wallpaper-removal with Gardz & skim-coating. Plus, tinted primer as your first coat plus a single coat of paint is usually cheaper than two coats of paint. Their advertising blurb says, “Rx-35 Sealer/Primer repairs torn drywall to create a wall surface that can be floated, spackled, painted or hung with wallpaper,” so what I’m thinking is she believed I bought R-35, not RX-35 – two different things. Read my full disclosure here. And even after getting a good sealer, it is still not 100% foolproof, so I have to still work out a bubble from time to time. Read some of your posts dude...love to let you know...but then you might be outa a job:whistling2: well u dont have to tell me.. theres more ppl out here than u that know.. heres the trick, put it on as you do normally then let it sit for a few mins then whip it again. At the time, I was using regular all-purpose joint compound (with a green lid), but I’ve since switched to a lightweight version that produces less dust (or at least, claims to, with a blue lid). There have been other tips I’ve come across that I haven’t yet tried myself, but am open to trying now that I’m on the last room I need to fix (for a while, I hope). I asked him if he thought there was an issue with the drywall itself in that spot and he didn’t think so. Here I am, again, with blistering drywall paper even after priming. Then, come back and read the rest of these tips as a supplement to that tutorial. Use a clean roller to apply the top coat in an upward motion over the mist coat. It looks ugly. Hot mud (20 min is what I prefer) works well for patching. Ok, this part sucks. Easy, but time-consuming. . Myron Ferguson, “that drywall guy” states that he uses flat white latex paint as his “primer.” I do the same thing. So, always mix the joint compound (I prefer to make mine a tiny bit runnier than some of the other tutorials will tell you to do, but find what works for you). The problem is that I'm getting a large amount of bubbling in the compound. I work so hard on some of these posts to make sure I can be as thorough as possible, so I’m thrilled you found it helpful. You’re my absolute favorite blogger :), Donna, I can’t tell you how MUCH I appreciate your kind words. Once dry, the wall can be painted, wallpapered and otherwise decorated as normal. Not one that talks to me like I’ve already done this 100 times, and not one that only gives me half of the information I need. ;). One more example (an example to be avoided) of the effect of latex paints on drywall mud is the “hatband” effect that people get when a paint brush is used to cut-in when painting the area where a wall meets a ceiling. Yes, prior to skim coating, I began by sealing off the old paper. I thought I’d gotten rid of any problem areas. Just remember to buy a filter for your shop vac that is for drywall dust (fine particles), or you’ll wind up having to buy a new shop vac after choking the motor. So…..I had extensive drywall paper damage after removing beadboard that had been glued to the drywall–similar to the problems you outlined in your original post–and I tend to regret undertaking the process to “restore” the area of drywall in question. I got the 90-minute tip from a friend who has skim coated walls with it many times… but ONLY as a first layer. ok ty.. jw because im doing a remodel and have a cpl of patches.. and i hate that crap, I,ve found putting a good primer[like Adirondack] on 1st works,but then you lose a day. I’m still doing research to see if the reviews stack up to the claims, and you’ll hear about it (good or bad) if I try one out. I’m not a pro by any means but I can usually get a wall smooth enough in three passes of increasingly larger drywall knives. I began skim coating in the master bath, but then there was the guest bath, the dining room, and now, I’m in the home stretch with my kitchen. I didn’t know what “level 5 drywall” was. It doesn’t take very long for this stuff to dry, so don’t worry too much about this putting a lengthy hiccup in your progress. Really. Look at the walls after pulling paneling off. Been from the wall then roll ( yes roll ) on that from you it helps... 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